Mastering the Art of Small Vessel Hollowing: Tips on Scrapers for Hollowing

Today, I want to share the five most important takeaways to help you refine your hollowing process, from selecting the right chucks and chuck jaws to mastering the use of scrapers for hollowing.

I recently spent some time on a live stream hollowing out a series of small vessels made from some incredible Bur Oak. This wood came from a 400-year-old tree in Plano, Texas, and while it “cracks like the Dickens,” its grain patterns are absolutely worth the effort. Click the video below to watch the replay of the live stream.

1. Choosing the Right Scrapers for the Job

When turning small forms, your choice of scrapers for hollowing is critical. During the live stream, as mentioned above, I began comparing a variety of tools to find the best fit for these delicate oak vessels .

• Heavy Scrapers for Roughing: I often start with a large, single-bevel robust scraper to “rough out” the bulk of the interior wood quickly by pushing straight down the side. I also use a round-nose scraper to finish the side walls with a lighter touch.
• Teardrop Cutters: This is a very versatile category of woodturning tools when combined with a half-round bar. Orient the Teardrop cutter one way for heavy scraping using the flat side of the bar on the tool rest for torque resistance. Flip the bar and cutter over, and it becomes a fantastic shear scraper—a highly effective form of negative rake scraping.
• Negative Rake Scrapers: These are my “secret weapon” for finishing. They minimize chatter and leave a surface that requires very little sanding . I’ve actually created a negative rake version of my Teardrop Cutter with a double bevel (about 70–75° on the bottom and 10° on the top) that allows for incredibly clean shear scraping. There are many negative rake scraper options from other manufacturers.

2. Leveraging Specialized Chucks and Jaws

Proper workholding is the foundation of safety and precision. For these small vessels, I utilized both expanding pin jaws and the O’Donnell 3-in-1 jaw set. You can also read further about the array of chuck jaws for Axminster and other chucks by reading this article.

• Internal Precision Grip: Expanding pin jaws fit into a small pre-drilled hole, expanding to secure the piece from the inside. This provides full access to the exterior, allowing shaping and tenon creation to proceed unencumbered. By offsetting the blank from the jaw face, I gain the necessary clearance to turn the entire exterior, including the rim, without interference.
• Clearance and Adaptability: O’Donnell jaws feature a conical shape that allows for more tool access near the tenon. The 3-in-1 set includes two inserts that mount to the main 50mm jaws, accommodating 38mm and 25mm tenons. This versatility ensures I can size the bottom of these small vessels precisely as needed.

3. Mastering Grain Direction Strategy

I turn these vessels using a face grain orientation, where the grain runs perpendicular to the lathe axis. This choice is driven by two main factors:

• Ease of Hollowing: Face grain is significantly easier to hollow using scrapers and gouges compared to end grain, allowing for smoother tool control.
• Visual Impact: This orientation highlights the oak’s medullary rays. By using quarter-sawn blanks, the curved form reveals beautiful hyperbolic and ovoid grain patterns that give each piece its unique character.

4. Conquering the “Middle Mountain”

• The Divot: To remove the small “divot” or hole left by the drill bit, I use a technique of sweeping the tool from the center to the left. This is effective with the narrow rounded end of the Teardrop cutter. Let the pointy end of the teardrop cutter drop into that small drill bit divot and then sweep slowly to the left.
• The Button: If you end up with a “button” or “middle mountain”, which is not uncommon, you need to attack it from below. Position your hollowing tool right at the center, then drop the cutting edge just below the peak. Move the tool in slightly, then raise the cutting edge up and through the “middle mountain.” Once the center is level with the bottom, perform one final sweep from the middle left to the outer diameter of the vessel floor.
• Steady Pressure: I use light, negative rake scraping here to ensure the transition from the wall to the floor of the vessel is seamless and smooth .

5. The Art of the Jam Chuck

Once the interior is hollowed and sanded, you need a way to finish the bottom. This is where jam chucking comes in. I turn a custom jam chuck mandrel out of soft maple to match the interior curve of the vessel perfectly. For natural edge vessels, jam fitting on the interior diameter is essential, making tailstock support mandatory. If the rim is cleanly cut, it can be butted against a jam chuck lip for better torque resistance, though I still use a tailstock whenever possible. Finally, secure the piece with strong masking tape at the rim to safely remove the tailstock and finish turning the very bottom.

Final Thoughts

Ready to try this yourself? Whether you are looking for new woodturning tools or just refining your technique, remember that patience and the right scraper for hollowing can make all the difference. If you have questions about the specific grinds I use on my scrapers, feel free to reach out!

Be sure to check out other turning resources on the AAW website.